Ladakh, India: 4 Sep '26 Trek

This is NOT a classic trek.  Classic treks = lots of people, lots of social media and lots of guide books and not much adventure or discovery to be had.  This trekhas all the makings of a classic: mountains, rivers, huge sky, high passes, villages, monasteries, agriculture, people, wildlife, ancient petroglyphs and trekking in some of the most remote regions in the Himalaya – and of course the excellent service, great food and good company that we know Indian Himalayan Excursions is famous for – but without the other trekkers.

Dates: Leaving Australia 4 September. Number of days: 28Day 1 is flying into Delhi, Day 28 is flying from Leh to Delhi. Number of trekking days:20 Including rest days plus 2 day hikes from homestay

Number of trekkers:Minimum 6, maximum 12

Cost: $AUD4300

Included

• All meals and snacks while on trek, ie from day 3-25

• Tents and homestay accommodation

• Sleeping bags and mattress

• Staff (cooks, guides etc)

• Porterage by horse

• Hotels (double occupancy) in Manali and Leh

• Transport from Chandigarh to Manali, then all vehicle transport until arrival in Leh at the end of the trek

• Dinner and breakfast in Manali and Leh

Not Included

• Lunch Manali and Leh

• Tips

• Any excursions outside of Leh on days 26 and 27

• Flight Delhi to Chandigarh (approx. $60) and flight Leh to Delhi (approx. $200)

 

For the trek there is no extra charge for single supplement.  Trekkers not wishing to share a tent will be accommodated at no extra charge.However there is a single supplement charge for hotels of $110.   Single rooms are not likely to be available in the homestay in Kardang.

Day 1  Manali

Arrive Delhi airport, breakfast in the airport and then take the flight to Chandigarh (1 hour) We will be met at Chandigarh airport by IHE drivers and begin the drive of 6 hours to Manali.  Our vehicles will be comfortable SUV style or if the group is at maximum, a bus.  There will be plenty of rest stops enroute.  Accommodation and dinner in Manali

Day 2  Manali

A day of rest and acclimatisation in Manali (2050 metres).  Manali is IHE’s hometown.  A small town easy to negotiate on foot to the market area, the Hadimba Temple, old Manali and the last chance to purchase forgotten items and eat city food. 

Day 3 Kardang

From Manali the road climbs through conifer forest with massive Himalayan cedar to the entrance to the Atal tunnel.  The tunnel cutting through the Himalaya is 9 kilometres long and is the longest tunnel in the world above 10000 ft.  On the other side in Lahaul, the change in vegetation is marked – from forest on the south to a much drier landscape in the rain shadow of the Himalaya on the north.  We turn west and 3 hours drive from Manali arrive at the homestay in Kardang village (3500 metres).  An afternoon exploring the village, 900-year-old monastery and surrounds.  

Day 4 Kardang

Our first acclimatisation hike is to the Gangstang Glacier, pictured below.   We drive 1 hour from the homestay to the 17th century monastery at Shashur.  It’s a steady climb through woodland and into alpine meadows: flowers and juniper and spectacular mountain views.  We are likely to see Lahauli shepherds who bring their flocks to high pasture in summer.  Our high point near the toe of the Gangstang Glacier is around 4000 metres. 

Day 5 Kardang

Today’s hike is from Kardang on an ancient pilgrimage path which Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims follow in summer.  The pilgrimage is to complete the kora (circuit) of the holy mountain of Drilbu Ri.  The walk is through pea and barley fields into alpine meadows with huge views to Gangstang and across to Chandra River to Keylong and the Shikar Beh range. We reach 4450 metres at Khindang and our kora is completed with a jeep ride back to Kardang.

Day 6 Purne

After 2 good acclimatisation days we are ready to enter the high country of Zanskar and Ladakh.   We drive over the 5100 metre Sinnku La into the southern Zanskar Valley and follow the Kargiak Chu (river) though severalsmallvillages to reach Purne, a tiny village at 3700 metres.  At Purne the Kargiak Chu and the Tsarap Chu meet to form the Zanskar River which is a major tributary of the Indus River.  In winter when the cold is intense and the passes are covered in impassable snow, the frozen Zanskar River, the Chadar is the only way for local people to travel through a frozen land.

Day 7 Phugtal Monastery

A 2 hour easy walk brings us to one of the most breathtaking sights of the trek.The 15th century Phugtal Monastery is built around a natural cave and appears to hang like a honeycomb from the cliff.  The yellow hat monks of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism are welcoming and we will spend the day exploring the monastery, especially to see the magnificent paintings and thankas.  Camp today is at 3850 metres.

Day 8 Tantak

We follow the Tsarap Chu along a narrow track with a stream crossing near the village of Tantak.  Tantak is an isolated, very small, traditionalZanskari village relying on marginal agriculture for its survival. We camp near the small monastery on the edge of the river at 4000 metres.

Day 9 Tantak

A rest day with a chance to visit Shade village at 4240 metres   Shade is considered one of the most isolated and highest villages in India, “if not the world”.  For 6 months of the year the 70 residents are cut off from the rest of the world when the extremely harsh winter arrives.  

Day 10  and 11 Yarshun

We leave camp and climb gradually to NiyaloKhontse La.   The 4820-metre pass offers magnificent views back to the Shade valley and ahead to Gotunda La and a beautiful alpine lake at the base of it.  We descend to the base of Gotunda La and then climb steadily again to the pass at 5140 metres and a vista of peaks and glaciers as far as can be seen.  We drop into a narrow gorge and pass though to camp at Yarshun at 4000 metres.  Camp on Day 10 is flexible with a number of options depending on weather and the strength of the group.

Day 12 Satok

The magnificent Tsarap Chu is our constant companion today as we follow it through grazing meadows, crossing the Zara Chu on an improvised bridge before camp at 4010 metres

Day 13 Tsok Metsik

Another good day’s walk along the Tsarap Chu, easy walking with a number of small passes.  Camp at 4000 metres

Day 14 Brandy Nullah

We reach the Manali to Leh highway early afternoon where our vehicles will be waiting to take us to camp near Gian.  We camp alongside our old friend the Tsarap Chu at 4200 metres.  We have left Zanskar and now inLadakh.  The region we will be trekking in is called Changtang, the southern section of the vast Tibetan plateau.

Day 15Lamaguru

We follow the highly braided Tsarap Chu which has cut eroded banks in the most remarkable shapes.  The earthy colours of the Changtangtwisted landscape are other worldly and it is a big day for photographers. We are now in Tibetan blue sheep (bharal) country and often see prints of snow leopard or wolf in the muddy riverbed. We cross the braided river a few times and camp at 4260 metres where the Umnag Chu meets the Tsarap

Day 16 Tsarap River Camp

Today is nature at its rawest with millions of years of geological time on display.  The landforms are stunning, a backdrop to the clear, turquoise blue waters of the Tsarap.  Fossilised shells are common, from a time when this was the ocean floor, 200 million years ago in Tethys time.  We cross to the far bank and camp at 4550 metres.

Day 17 Pangpo La base

Straight out of camp we enter a narrow gorge which requires some rock hopping to negotiate the river that has cut it.  The gorge narrows to be only a couple of metres wide with towering cliffs leading to soaring mountains above us.   It then opens enough for us to camp on the edge of the river on grassy banks, a truly spectacular camp at 4850 metres.

Day 18 Kun Tso

This is a tough day for (hu)man and beast, a day when you marvel at the skill and toughness of the ponies and pony wallahs.  Leaving our comfortable,relatively spacious river camp we re-enter the gorge often having to help establish the path for the ponies.  When IHE pioneered this trek in 2016 the route had to be found and made – now the route is known but is so rarely used it is often blocked.  We exit the gorge to a steep climb, a scramble for us and ponies but finally we reach more solid footing and the top of Pangpo La, 5239 metres.  We follow a stream down and into the open valleys

of Rupshu to camp at 5000 metres near Kun Tso near a natural spring that gushes from the earth.

Day 19 Kun Tso

After yesterday’s effort a rest day is in order.  Some will do that -rest -but others will be tempted to explore this amazing place.  Every direction beckons the curious, the geology is remarkable, wildlife like Blue Sheep (bharal), Great Tibetan Sheep (argali), Wolf (shanku) and Tibetan Wild Ass (kyiang) have all been seen here on this rest day.  The small lake Kun Tso is a magnet for bird life, especially Brahminy duck.  At night it is a must to leave the warmth of your tent to see the stars like you have never seen before.  Here at 5000 metres with clear air the stars and especially the milky way are memorable.

Day 20 Kyiang Shisha

We cross the valley floor in a circuitous route to visit some hidden sights; theArgali valley and the natural springs to camp at 4844 metres at KyiangSisha, the “Graveyard of the Kyiang” under a towering rock face.  As with almost every day on this trek, those who feel they still have some walking left in them, have endless opportunity to explore from camp.

Day 21 Manechan

The valley opens up and the river is wide and braided.  At times the river is above ground but mostly it’s below welling above ground in springs.  We pass under Karpa with its unusually shaped summit and hanging glacier and cross

the Phirtse Phu to camp at 4680 metres on the grassy bank.  The Phirtse Phu is the main feeder river to Tso Moriri, the lake we will reach in a couple of days.  Kyiang are commonly seen and snow leopard were seen by an IHE group here in 2016 and their tracks on almost every trek. 

Day 22 Kunmochey

We follow the Phirtse Phu, very pleasant walking along its grassy bank.  Either side the walls are steep, and the valley closes the further we walk along it.  Blue Sheep, marmot, kyiang, pika and fox are often seen and snow leopard and wolf tracks and kyiang bones, the remains of their prey, litter the valley floor.  Wecamp at 4616 metres under ‘snow leopard cave’ which can be visited in the afternoon.

Day 23 Kyiangdom

This is a memorable day.  We follow the Phirtse Phu to its end and climb above the river, turn the corner to the spectacular view of Tso Moriri with the highest peaks in Ladakh, the 6600 metre Chamser and Lamster Kangridominant across the lake.  We drop to the lake but stop at the petroglyph site ‘discovered’ by IHE in 2016 and documented in 2018 (see Recommended Reading).  Kyiang are common here as are the migratory bar-headed geese in Tso Moriri.  Our camp at 4588 metres is nothing short of stunning:views across and down the lake, the Mentok peaks above camp and behind us in the distance the mountains of Spiti.

Day 24 Korzok

We walk the length of Tso Moriri admiring its many colour changes but at times cursing the wind if it is blowing and the deceptive distance.  But all things must end and we reach the tiny village of Korzok at 4600 metres, a monastery and a road.  This is civilisation, the end of the trek.

Day 25 Leh

Like all drives there will be times when you wish the drive to Leh was over.  But do take in the spectacular scenery, remember you are seeing the mighty Indus, one of the world’s great rivers and in a short time you’ll be enjoying a hot shower and perhaps a strong coffee and cake at one of Leh’s many coffee shops.

Days 26 and 27 Leh

Leh is a wonderful place to wander in, visit the old fort, Shanti Stupa, the Muslim bakeries, do some shopping, observe life on the Mall, have yet another coffee and cake.  There are also some great day trips from Leh;

Hemis and Thiksey Monasteries or even a day’s rafting on the Indus.  IHE has excellent contacts in Leh and anything can be arranged.

Day 28 Delhi

The flight to Delhi is reliable and many will choose to fly Leh to Delhi and take their international flight the same day.  Make sure you get a window seat as the Leh to Delhi flight must be one of the most amazing flights in the world.

 

Recommended reading

• Wild Places Wild Hearts Nomads of the Himalaya by Allen Smutylo  2007

The best book I have read of the Changtang and a beautiful coffee table book well worth owning

• Ancient Futures by Helena Norberg Hodge 2009

Cultural change in Ladakh

• A Journey in Ladakh by Andrew Harvey 2003

• The link below is to a paper written by Bill Boyd when we ‘discovered’ an extensive site of Buddhist and pre-Buddhists petroglyphs near Tso Moriri in 2018

More info: Stephen Millard    0414 312 917